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Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Dark purple. Powerful aromas of cherry liqueur, licorice pastille and pungent flowers, with exotic Indian spice and mocha overtones. Dense, sweet and broad, offering intense black and blue fruit preserve, violet and spicecake flavors enlivened by juicy acidity. Fine-grained tannins build slowly through the clinging, appealingly sweet finish, which shows outstanding clarity and persistence and…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Bright violet color. High-pitched red and dark berry aromas are complicated by Asian spices, potpourri and black pepper, with a smoky nuance sneaking up with aeration. Lively, focused and pure, offering intense black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter with air. Silky tannins frame the sappy finish, which clings with impressive tenacity and…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Glass-staining purple. Intense dark berry and Asian spice aromas, with a sexy potpourri quality and a suggestion of woodsmoke. Deeply pitched cassis and bitter cherry flavors show impressive clarity and lift, picking up notes of star anise and allspice on the back half. Packs a serious punch but comes off as lithe, with excellent finishing…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Inky ruby. Deep, brooding and initially inscrutable, with uncannily concentrated blackberry and cassis scents. Rich dark fruit preserve flavors seem almost solid, but there’s wonderful vivacity too. Picks up supple tannins on the finish, which leaves a tattoo of black and blue fruits on the palate. Extremely primary right now.

Alto Piemonte: Small Is Beautiful (Feb 2024)

The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lifted. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon and orange peel grace this ethereal, nuanced Gattinara. Bright saline notes and sweet red-toned fruit build into the long, persistent finish. Understated and silky, the 2020 is exquisite. All this needs is a few years to soften.

Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that…