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Saar Riesling 2018: Beating the Heat (Jul 2020)

White peach and white currant in jellied form are wreathed in thyme and mint and accompanied by a whiff of raw mushroom on an enticing nose and a glossy, faintly oily palate. Prominent sweetness is checked by an influx of fresh citrus, along with mouthwatering salinity. The vibrantly persistent finish introduces nippy aspects of green…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc): Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of blackberry, cassis, lead pencil, violet and minerals, complicated by a superripe note of crushed raspberry. Extremely primary and pure, offering sharply defined cassis, violet and mineral flavors of great class. The perfectly integrated acidity and a vibrant floral character from the…

The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Bright ruby-red. Complex, intensely perfumed bouquet of candied cherry, vanilla, mocha, cured tobacco and spicecake, with a suave potpourri note becoming stronger in the glass. Offers sweet, penetrating cherry-cola and lavender pastille flavors complicated by hints of smoky minerals and candied licorice. The long, subtly tannic finish delivers noteworthy energy and focus, leaving suave spicecake…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Brilliant ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, pipe tobacco and vanilla, and violet and mineral accents emerge as the wine stretches out. Palate-staining blackberry, cherry-vanilla, cassis, fruitcake, mocha and candied licorice flavors show superb depth and clarity while hints of floral pastilles and Moroccan spices add complexity. Gains…

Castillo Ygay 1959–2016: A Legacy in Present Tense

It is telling to compare warm and cool years at the turn of the 2010s, when these wines increasingly reflect both vintage character and a firmly established house style. The 2010 Castillo Ygay (Tempranillo with a dash of Mazuelo) comes from a cool year and shows as such: initially closed and reductive, clearly mid-evolution. With…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(raised in foudres) Deep ruby. Hugely aromatic red and dark berry, potpourri and floral scents are underscored by smoky minerality and an exotic suggestion of Asian spices. Sappy, focused and impressively deep yet lively, offering alluringly sweet raspberry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors and a refreshingly bitter touch of blood orange. Puts on weight and…