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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red-ruby. Very ripe but subdued nose hints at mulberry, caramel, toffee, iron and nutty oak. Very ripe, broad and deep but quite closed today; lush and full but classically dry and light on its feet. Red berry and mineral flavors coat the palate. Builds impressively on the very long, gripping finish. I would not…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Full copper-gold color. Initially restrained, brooding nose exploded with aeration, showing apple, orange, apricot, honey, iodine, smoke, hazelnut, macadamia and a suggestion of dry oloroso sherry. Dense, full, chewy and rich; an extraordinarily solid Champagne with an intriguing suggestion of Calvados. Broadens toward the back and goes on and on on the echoing aftertaste, with…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

Pol Roger’s 1996 Winston Churchill is fabulous. One of the most expressive, complete 1996s today, the Winston Churchill is in a great spot. Butter, spice, almond and lemon oil notes meld together effortlessly in the glass. In 1996, the Winston Churchill is a clear overachiever. Best of all, it remains reasonably priced vis-à-vis its peers.

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright gold with a lively mousse Deep, pungent nose features powerful scents of minerals, saffron, pear, lilac, buttered apple, pear, white peach and marzipan. Broad and improbably concentrated, the pear and apple flavors packing a huge punch and complicated by buttery, leesy tones. As rich and supple as this is, it also boasts brilliant cut….

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

Another example of this era, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé offers plenty of energy and tension, both signatures of the vintage. At the same time, though, the fruit never fills out, which tilts the balance to acidity and austerity. Frankly, I liked the 1996 more when it was younger. Today, the fruit has either begun…