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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Talbot has a refined, red berry nose with scents of leather, damp earth and light cocoa aromas. It just lacks a little power. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannin, and moderate acidity. Quite fleshy with conspicuous mocha-like notes, although it is missing some depth and certainly complexity on the finish. Talbot? Tasted…

Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 1981 Collection (Magnum) has begun to slowly enter a plateau of maturity marked by slightly oxidative, tertiary notes that give the wine its burnished, resonant personality. Open-knit and creamy on the palate, the 1981 is an ideal wine for current drinking, as it is not likely to improve much from here. Stone fruit, vanilla,…