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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

61% merlot and 39% cabernet franc): Good full ruby. Crystallized blackcurrant, licorice, cedar and menthol on the nose, complicated by cocoa and smoky minerals. Round and ripe but not thick or heavy on the palate, featuring tangy flavors of black cherry, licorice, graphite and spices. At once creamy and juicy, with good breadth and fine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that has never quite rocked my boat, and at 20 years of age, it still doesn’t. The bouquet feels a little simple and quite high-toned for Cheval Blanc, driven by the Merlot and trying too hard to impress. The palate is medium-bodied with robust tannin and sweet candied…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full ruby-red. Aromas of currant, bitter chocolate, violet, lead pencil and tobacco leaf; less black and more red than the 2000 and 2001. Fat, sweet and full, with smoke and currant flavors. Long on personality but it’s hard to imagine this wine ever showing as much complexity as either of the subsequent two vintages. Finishes…

Vertical Tasting of Quinta do Noval’s Nacional Vintage Port (Nov 2012)

Good medium ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of black cherry, blackberry and licorice; more medicinal today than the regular vintage bottling. Big, rich and sweet, but still dominated by baby fat and in a rather monolithic stage today. Very ripe but the medicinal menthol quality currently holds the upper hand over the wine’s glossy dark fruits….

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is terrific. In fact, it is one of the finest recent Grande Dames I can remember tasting. Vibrant and tense, the 2012 exudes energy. At this stage, the natural richness of the 2012 vintage is hidden behind the wine's bright, salivating acids. Green apple, pear, mint and white pepper add…