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Cristal in Magnum: It’s Another World (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal (magnum) is off the charts. In magnum, the 2002 shows a bit less of the opulence and richness it presents in bottle, which is not at all a bad thing for a vintage that has so much natural exuberance. Creamy and exquisitely layered in the glass, the 2002 is wonderfully expressive today,…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2002 Cristal is now entering its first plateau of maturity, which makes it a terrific Champagne for drinking now. Hints of apricot, brioche, lemon confit, honey, hazelnut, baked apple tart and spice give the 2002 striking layers of nuance. Rich and generous, the 2002 show plenty of the natural opulence of the year and…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

The 1990 Cristal is remarkable. Polished, nuanced and light on its feet, the 1990 is all class. Citrus, orchard fruit and floral notes are wonderfully lifted throughout. A slight reductive note adds character on the finely knit finish. I can’t think of a better way to start this tasting. Simply put, the 1990 is a…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2017 Bannockburn Pinot Noir has a lovely, understated bouquet with blackberry and briary aromas and a subtle earthy/forest floor note loitering in the wings. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin and gentle grip in the mouth, but nothing overly powerful. It is a natural Pinot Noir leaning towards a broodier style, yet…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is the usual combination of Petit Chapelle, Cherbaudes and Bel Air, matures in 60% new oak with 30-40% whole bunches. This is a big step up from the Village Cru: much more delineation and precision, pure blackberry and raspberry fruit, the whole bunch deftly used. The palate is very harmonious…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from parcels in the south of the appellation. It is 100% de-stemmed, as it is the maiden vintage Arnaud Mortet wanted to judge the vineyards performance, matures in 30% new oak. It has a brighter bouquet than the Mes Cinq Terroirs that comes from vineyards in the north of the…