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Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Francois Labet’s old-vine cuvée, is dark, dense and powerful. Black cherry, plum, gravel, spice and licorice give the 2016 a real feeling of gravitas. The Vieilles Vignes is an imposing, brooding Burgundy. It comes across as heavy and overextracted. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater aromatic…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.2% alcohol; 18 hectoliters per hectare produced; from vines harvested on September 23): Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Explosive, fruit-dominated aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices, mint, menthol, flowers and minerals. Conveys compelling sappy energy in a silky, medium-bodied package, with its black fruit and herb flavors complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Boasts…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Bright, deep red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the young 2017, offering aromas of cherry, blueberry, menthol and licorice and an impression of medicinal reserve. A juicy, spicy, impeccably balanced midweight with outstanding clarity and cut and an enticing touch of sweetness leavened by spiciness. Plenty of tannin/acid spine here to frame and carry the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the yield was down 25% due to the frost): Very dark ruby-red. Pure, high-pitched aromas of blackberry, violet and crushed rock. A step up in sucrosité and pliancy, offering an almost voluptuous texture to its dense flavors of black cherry, boysenberry, minerals and violet. Verging on chocolatey in its ripeness but holds its shape nicely….

Beaujolais: If You Want Value – You’ve Got It (Oct 2019)

Opaque violet color. Potent, mineral-accented cherry, black raspberry and fruitcake aromas, with a sexy floral nuance adding complexity. Offers juicy, impressively concentrated black/blue fruit, violet pastille and dark chocolate flavors that convey both power and delicacy. Chewy and penetrating on the youthfully tannic, spice-tinged finish, which shows excellent clarity and strong, mineral-driven persistence.

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with mulberry, blackcurrant leaf, wild strawberry and sous-bois aromas, fine mineralité bubbling up with aeration. The focus is commendable here and the oak well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannin, velvety smooth in texture with some quality new oak lending an irresistible…