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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, has a very refined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and cedar aromas, very focused and sophisticated. The palate is well balanced with sour red cherries, balsamic and cedar notes, vibrant and full of energy, though you might well argue it doesn’t quite have the panache and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright dark ruby. Knockout perfumed nose of great purity: cassis, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate. A penetrating wine of outstanding vinosity and verve; offers great tensile strength. Youthfully tight, classic claret whose extremely long finish features very fine tannins. I’m not convinced Ducru has made a wine in recent vintages to equal its ’95 and…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Good deep red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, menthol, tar, tobacco and underbrush. Dense and lush but backward, with the restrained sweetness of the vintage. This conveys an impression of soil character and extract, but really requires seven or eight years of additional cellaring. Shows a classic medicinal Serralunga finish, but the firm tannins…

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

The 1999 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is terrific. A rich, silky wine, the 1999 impresses for finessed personality and inviting texture. The balance of fruit and tannin – one of the signatures of this great site – is impeccable. Although the 1999 is no longer the brute it once was, tertiary notes have yet to…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Batailley has plenty of fruit on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, a touch of shoe leather and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitterness on the entry, nicely balanced though, cedar and tobacco infusing the black fruit with a touch more fruit on the finish compared to Haut-Batailley. It just needs more…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 2016 Warre’s Vintage Port was picked from 19 September, the harvest took 10 days longer than usual in order to gain optimal ripeness. It has a tightly-wound but compelling bouquet with intense black fruit laced with clove, nutmeg and touches of smoke. This is a Warre’s with great precision and detail. The palate is…