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2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Vivid purple. Intense dark berry compote, anise and Indian spice scents show excellent power and depth. Stains the palate with sweet black and blue fruit flavors and picks up a sexy floral nuance with aeration. Atypically dense and complex for an entry-level bottling, this wine finishes with superb clarity and length and smooth, harmonious tannins.

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2010 Sette Ponti is drop-dead gorgeous. Tar, licorice, incense, plums and graphite jump from the glass in a wine that impresses for its nuance, delineation and sheer class. The tannins are firm, but also beautifully balanced. Readers should give the 2010 a few years in bottle to come around, but even today, the wine’s…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1971 Léoville-Poyferré is a poor wine even in the context of a challenging vintage. This ex-château bottle has a nose that is thin and rather volatile, decaying after just five minutes in the glass. The palate is leafy and quite acetic, bitter and harsh on the finish. Not it’s finest hour. Tasted from an…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

Philippe Dhalluin served the 1986 Mouton Rothschild to wrap up our vertical. The 1986 remains one of my favorite Moutons. A dark, powerful wine, the 1986 is endowed with a vertical sense of structure that is a marvel to behold. Dark stone fruit, smoke, graphite, mocha, soy and licorice are fused together in a marvelously…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; pH 3.54; IPT 66; 12.5% alcohol; 90% new oak; an 80% selection): Very deep, saturated ruby with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Ripe red and black fruits, mint, vanilla, minerals and delicate black pepper on the captivating nose. Very rich,…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the ’86 Mouton…