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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Green-tinged gold. Deep, smoky, exotic bouquet of poached pear, yellow plum, nectarine, lees and cured meat. Lush and creamy, with intensely smoky orchard fruit flavors and a sweet/spicy cinnamon toast quality. Deep, chewy and expansive on the finish, where the cinnamon and toasty lees flavors echo with noteworthy persistence. Complex enough to enjoy now but…

The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)

Dom Pérignon’s 1993 Oenothèque was a very pretty, slender wine with attractive notes of smoke, yeast and roasted nuts.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1970 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I tasted regularly about twenty years ago – always a strong performer even if it did not deliver fireworks. At over half a century, it has not lost a bit of vigour, but there are lovely scents of clove, liquorice and a touch of furniture polish combining with…

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 2015 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked at 25.55hl/ha on 7 and 8 September. This has a fascinating bouquet. The stem addition seems a little more transparent than the other crus from the domaine. The La Tâche has darker fruit than the Richebourg mixed with black tea, bay leaf, a pinch of cracked black…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Ineffable nose and palate combine note of flowers, anisette and Asian spices with raspberry and pungent crushed-stone minerality. Wonderfully plush and penetrating, conveying uncanny inner-mouth clarity and lift and impressive reserve to its sappy core of fruit. Finishes with a strong spine of tannins but the wine’s dark raspberry, espresso and mineral…

Champagne: The Last Frontier (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Brut Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises emerges from the glass with an elegant, refined mousse that is captivating. Sweet, perfumed and layered, the 2000 VVF shows off superb grace and a long, vibrant finish. This is an especially elegant and understated version of this Champagne. My preference is to drink VVF before…