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The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

A wine of pure and total pleasure, the 2004 Dom Pérignon Rosé is explosive and hedonistically rich, with tons of pure texture from the 28% still Pinot in the blend. In this tasting, the 2004 Rosé is especially fine. I imagine it will reward readers lucky enough to own it with several decades of exceptional…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good ruby-red. Redcurrant, plum, tobacco and flowers on the nose. Suave and light on its feet, with excellent integrated acidity framing and extending the flavors. Classy and classic wine, finishing with ripe, building tannins. This would be perfect with a cigar. Today Delmas and Masclet prefer this 2002 to the 2001 Haut-Brion, but for La…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Inky purple. Spicy dark berry and violet aromas build and expand with air, picking up suave mineral and sassafras character. Fleshy dark berry preserve flavors are complemented by zesty graphite and succulent herbs, finishing with superb depth and sweetness. Great material here, and I’ll bet that this will please drinkers not long after its release,…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep red. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted strawberry, licorice and woodsmoke. A bit disjointed today, with the wine herbal element clashing with its roasted, tarry oak. Like a few of these ’99s, this is not showing the texture and breadth it displayed a year ago from barrel, perhaps a result of filtration (some Faiveley…

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet covers every inch of the palate with fruit. In 2010, the Bâtard is towering, statuesque and simply impeccable. Today the aromas and flavors are not at all developed, rather the wine is really all about textural elegance and finesse, and there is plenty of that here. A huge, explosive finish rounds things…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled two weeks before my visit; 13.4% alcohol, vs. 13% for the Bienvenue): Bright, green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of white peach, pineapple, curry powder, medicinal herbs and musky lees. Sappy, chewy and dry, but completely locked up following the bottling and showing much less personality than the nose suggests. But this wonderfully tactile, fine-grained wine…