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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2012 Vieux Château Certan comes from a late harvest picked from October 1. The Cabernet is potent on the nose, not dissimilar to the 2008 with Montecristo cigars and undergrowth infusing the black fruit. Certainly, this is pretty Left Bank in style. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly herbaceous, peppery entry. Espresso notes…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

Focus on Barbaresco – A Close Look at 2019 & 2020 (Oct 2022)

The 2019 Barbaresco Serraboella is fresh, floral and quite delicate. Bright acids lift a core of red fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper. Nervy and quite aromatic, the 2019 is super-impressive today. I especially like the mineral drive. Give this sinewy, taut Barbaresco a few years to soften.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Etelois has a light, slightly peppery nose from the small amount of stems. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced, very pure with lilting red cherry and strawberry fruit on the finish. It has a discrete exuberance about it.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Réserve de la Comtesse is a superb second wine. Time in barrel and egg white fining have softened some of the tannins the 2015 showed as a barrel sample, but the fruit intensity, pedigree and class of the estate are all in the glass. Black cherry graphite, smoke and licorice are some of…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Réserve de la Comtesse has a fresh, delineated bouquet of cedar-infused red fruit; undergrowth and humidor notes surface with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, and fresh and balanced though not overly complex. It just needs to manifest more nuance and personality on the finish to merit a…