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Duero: From Ribera to Toro via Rueda (And a Few Other Detours) (Jun 2025)

The 2022 Flor de Pingus is made with grapes from the Burgos area of Ribera del Duero and was fermented in used barrels after an early harvest in a warm year. Floral and fruit aromas—lavender and violet, which are rare in warm vintages—open the nose, followed by a delicate touch of oak. A hint of…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby. Rather dumb nose exudes a faint shoe polish aroma. Dense, velvety, soft and mouthcoating; fills those hard-to-reach spots on your palate. Really an outsized wine, with thick, chocolatey fruit and major dusty tannins. But currently monolithic. In France they’d call this Monsieur Plus.”

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full medium ruby. The nose offers blackcurrant, licorice, graphite, violet, minerals and exotic spices. Broad, suave and fine-grained on the palate, with fleshy but sharply focused flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco. Finishes classically dry and very long. This is St. Emilion with Pauillac and Graves qualities-and a superb vintage for this chateau, whose…

Cellar Favorite: A Landmark Vintage – Henschke 2021 (Apr 2025)

This outstanding 2021 Shiraz Hill of Grace is a confident young wine built for the long haul in a punchy package that is still tightly wound. It is starting to reveal some of its charms with rocky, licorice, blackberry, and dried herb aromas. The palate is quite extraordinary, particularly the quality of tannins, pithy texture…