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The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

Another stellar wine, the 2004 Dom Pérignon is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development, as well as a bit of added weight it did not have as a young wine. The 2004 remains a bright, mid-weight DP built on persistence and length more than overt volume. I have always had a…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

Vivid yellow. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, quince and jasmine, with smoke and toasted grain qualities adding bass notes. Spicy, penetrating and pure, boasting impressive vivacity to its fresh orchard and citrus fruit flavors. Gains weight and breadth with air while maintaining vivacity, picking up a gingery nuance that carries through a long,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good medium red-ruby color. Less expressive but lively aromas of blue fruits and brown spices, plus a hint of confiture Not as ripe or fleshy as the ’96, but the dark berry and licorice flavors are currently rather tightly wrapped and unforthcoming. Finishes with substantial dusty (oak?) tannins that betray a slight astringency. Perhaps still…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Rather subdued aromas of plum, currant and game. An accessible midweight, with ripe, oak-enhanced tannins and good length. Not at all dilute. A good lunch wine and a good first wine for dinner, says Tesseron.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 4% cabernet franc; 3.74 pH; 13.3% alcohol): Dark red with an amber rim. Rather subdued aromas of red fruits, earth and coffee. Enters the bright and floral, then showcases darker flavors of black plum, underbrush and graphite. Finishes moderately long, with slightly drying tannins and modest complexity. I find…

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1995 Branaire-Ducru has a generous bouquet that might be a tad riper than the 1996 with blackberry, dark plum, a touch of sage and tobacco all with fine delineation. The palate is more forward than the 1996, a little ripe but I prefer the structure on the 1995. A subtle saline touch on the…