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The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)

Full medium ruby. Roasted black fruits and graphite on the nose. Sweet, dense and full; the superripe black fruits show a roasted aspect, but firm acids are keeping the wine tightly wound. Needs another year or so to show more complexity. Peter Sisseck’s second wine is from purchased grapes but may also contain some declassified…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium red, less bright than the Poisets. Plum and currant aromas. Fat, sweet and plump; in a softer, easier style, already capable of giving pleasure. But sound acids give freshness to the chewy fruit. Tannins are dusty and broad. The vein of sand running through this clay-and-chalk site gives the wine more roundness, according to…

2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)

(the highest in alcohol of these ’03s, at 13.4%; from 50-year-old vines) Sappy orange aroma. Sweet and tactile, with intense, layered fruit flavors of orange and tangerine sorbet. As creamy as this is, it also finishes with very good grip.

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

Dark red. Very ripe but somewhat stunted aromas of blackcurrant, plum, nuts and woodsmoke. Concentrated, ripe and full; very rich but rather uncompromisingly dry. The slightly roasted red fruit and nut flavors show more breadth than personality now, but this young Cote-Rotie is unusually fat and persistent, finishing with dusty, ripe tannins.

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1997 La Conseillante is showing some bricking on the rim, not unexpected given it is over 20 years old now. The nose is fully mature, loose-knit and showing more woody aromas than fruit. I wonder if too much new oak was used in its youth? The palate is fully mature with melted tannin and…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1998 La Conseillante is a wine that I had not encountered since 2010. This is certainly more vigorous than the previous three vintages: raspberry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of mocha and leather, and a sprig of wild heather in the background all with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannin and…