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Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Monte Bello opens with a burst of dark red fruit. Leather, tobacco and mocha open nicely in the glass. There’s no getting past smoke taint in this wine. That’s a shame, as the flavors are nicely delineated and the tannins are well balanced for the year in this small-scaled Monte Bello. The 2020…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1990 Ducru-Beaucaillou was matured in two-thirds new oak for 12 months. Ever a controversial vintage because of the problems in storage that tainted some of the production (not all), this bottle had a clean nose but one that felt a little one-dimensional, with simple red berry fruit and earthy notes, becoming increasingly herbal with…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Minerals, licorice, and earth notes on the nose; but two samples showed the slight musty quality that has plagued so many young Ducru bottles beginning with the ’85 vintage. Quite unevolved on the palate; lean for the vintage, but nicely delineated and understated. Firm tannins appear somewhat dry. Impossible to assess,…

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Romanée-Conti rand Cru was picked at 22.65hl/ha on 10 September. This is almost dichotomous to the La Tâche: feminine, sensual, pure with perfumed red cherries, wild strawberry, crushed limestone and rose petals that are all exquisitely defined. These aromatics? They seem to sing to you. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin that…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full dark red. Slightly darker and more reticent on the nose than La Tâche, dominated in the early going by black raspberry, cherry, spices, crushed rock and coffee. Enters the mouth like liquid velvet, expanding to show an incredible 3-D texture and great depth to its soil-inflected flavors of flowers, spices, mocha, underbrush and savory…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Pretty nose offers red cherry, minerals, rose petal and exotic spices. Then fatter in the mouth than the Chaumes but with a bit less definition and perfume. Showing more sweet vanillin oak today. But this is decidedly tannic and backward at present and needs cellaring.