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2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Red-ruby color. Penetrating, pure, highly complex aromas of raspberry, minerals, flowers and pungent spices. Wonderfully urgent and intense, with the mineral and pungent spice elements carrying through on the palate and giving the wine superb lift. Tightly wound but already showy. Finishes very long and nuanced, with fine, ripe tannins. From a selection massale planted…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good deep red. Knockout nose of raspberry, rose petal, minerals and white truffle. Pure silk on entry and in the middle palate. Harmonious acids lift and frame the raspberry, floral and mineral flavors. A wine of great breed, this really blossoms in the mouth, showing a profusion of floral nuances. Youthfully closed today, but expands…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2002 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru has a beguiling bouquet with pure brambly red fruit, fine mineralité, hints of sous-bois and pressed flower. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, not a powerful or decadent Les Amoureuses but complex and mineral-driven. There is a slight earthiness towards the finish…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Youthful purple. An expansive, highly complex bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, incense, candied flowers and vanilla, and a smoky mineral flourish adds urgency and lift. Sweet and seamless on entry, offering palate-staining blackberry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors and suggestions of mocha and cola. Tightens up steadily on the back half but shows no hard…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, bright medium ruby. Nose shows an almost liqueur-like ripeness, along with notes of bitter chocolate and menthol; a great expression of ripe but youthfully unevolved cabernet franc. Extremely dense and pure but still quite tight and showing a minty austerity. Wonderful acids give the wine superb clarity of flavor. This will require another decade…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cheval Blanc has been a lauded wine ever since release. I have often, quite controversially felt that it never quite matched its startling performances in its first ten years, though it remains and excellent wine. Now at 20-years old it offers opulent, high-toned scents of maraschino cherry, iodine, crème de cassis, dried blood…