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’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Inky ruby. Deep-pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of black currant and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of exotic spices with air. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, licorice and spicecake flavors that are sharpened by a smoky mineral element. Becomes sweeter and livelier with…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1985 Cos d’Estournel is another vintage that I have not encountered for a number of years. It is mature with wide bricking on the rim. The nose is not profound or intellectual, but it is engaging and involving with scents of warm gravel, terracotta-like scents that marry perfectly with the melted red fruit. The…

Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

Medium red. Some green notes and a suggestion of old oak dominate the nose. Initially showed a touch of sweetness and decent texture along with a repeating herbal element but lost some of its fruit with air. Between its slightly spiky acidity and soft tannins, this wine should be drunk up. (13.3% alcohol; October 6…

Delivering Where It Counts: Meyney 1971–2017 (Jul 2020)

The 2015 Meyney is an outstanding Saint Estèphe and here confirms its shock victory in the blind Southwold tasting. Intense dark cherries, blackberry and sage on the nose reveal just a hint of iron filings, all very cohesive and demonstrating well-integrated oak. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins, good grip and plush red fruit laced…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Meyney is terrific. There is lovely depth to the black cherry, graphite, smoke and earthy flavors. This is an especially supple, fruity style for Saint Estèphe, and yet there is more than enough underlying structure to give the wine backbone, persistence and a good deal of explosive energy as well.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

Graphite, dark blue/black fruit, smoke and spices meld together in the 2012 de Fonbel. Beams of supporting minerality and tannin give the 2012 much of its energy and sense of direction. This is a very pretty, impeccably balanced wine from the Vauthier family. The blend is 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and…