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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a light, tertiary bouquet that is very ephemeral, as if a light draught could blow the aromatics away. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins that frame tart red fruit. Quite peppery in style though there is not much weight and grip on the finish at…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 La Grande Rue Grand Cru comes from the famed 1.65-hectare monopole of Lamarche on the other side of the lane from Romanée-Conti. It has another light, airy nose, red cherries and a touch of tertiary scents, missing some of the vigour the 2020 exuded last year. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Richebourg Grand Cru comprises six barrels this year, three new and three second fill. It opens slowly in the glass, unveiling intense red berry, black truffle and light loamy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and balsamic-tinged red fruit, gaining depth towards the finish that fans out as Richebourg should. Tasted…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Clos de Sarpe was the first vintage to use 100% new barrels (the previous vintage had been matured in 50% new oak and the remainder in tank). It is also the first year where the Grand Vin came exclusively from the older vines; the younger vines were from the deuxième vin. It has…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Clos des Folatières 1er Cru, which comes from Alvina’s family, possesses one of the most satisfying and complex bouquets amongst their six Puligny wines: green apple, Golden Delicious, Mirabelle, crushed stone, and just a touch of persimmon. The palate is very well-balanced with beautifully integrated oak. Vibrant and slightly flinty on the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has wonderful delineation and poise on the nose, real frisson, with yellow fruit, egg whites and wild peach. Love it! The palate is very well-balanced with a touch of reduction, elegant in style, perhaps needing more depth and grip on the finish. But this is very suave and…