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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full, bright red. Reduced, musky aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, smoke, menthol and game. Dense, sweet and large-scaled, in a deceptively gentle style for young Bonnes-Mares. Turned creamier and more saline in the glass. Finishes with big, rich tannins and strong notes of spices, mocha and chocolate. I predict this will shut down in…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2009 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is poured from magnum by estate manager Jean-Luc Pepin. There’s light bricking on the rim. It has attractive red berry fruit on the nose, with leather, mulch and a light camphor note in the background. The palate is well-balanced with moderate depth. The secondary notes deliver light, meaty elements and…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Knockout nose combines currant, plum, minerals, licorice and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, rich and deep, but with near-perfect balancing acidity to frame the wine’s lush fruit. This superb 2005 has it all. Finishes with noble, sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. On my most recent visit, Prats told me he considered 2005 to be superior…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since…

Vinous Table: La Pagode de Cos & Restaurant Le Gabriel, Paris, France

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a real head-turner. What a wine. The soaring, exotic bouquet is immediately alluring. Spice box, new leather, mocha, blackberry, graphite and espresso announce a wine of exotic, beguiling beauty. Each taste reveals a different facet of this great, great wine from proprietor Michel Reybier. Simply put, the 2005 Cos d’Estournel…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay) Light, bright gold. Spicy citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by chalk, white flowers and a touch of smokiness. Taut, linear lemon and orange rind flavors give way to deeper pear in the mid-palate and pick up notes of honeysuckle and toasted grain with air. Still very young…