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2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Lazzarito continues a trend seen in recent years in which the focus has been more about finesse than raw power. Intense red fruit, iron, dried herbs, chalk, dried rose petal and white pepper all run through this deep, virile Barolo. The power and intensity of Serralunga really come alive on the heady,…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The contrast between preceding vintages and the 1995 Brane-Cantenac has always been stark, as if a completely different château had entered the fray. Finally, here is tangible brambly red berry fruit laced with cedar and just a modicum of wild mind. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with finely spun tannins, bright red fruit (cranberry…

Vinous Table: Marino Ristorante, Hollywood, CA (Jun 2018)

The 1988 Krug makes for a fabulous start. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1988 remains bright and focused, with all of the energy of this great vintage very much on display. Time has naturally softened some of the contours and added a good bit of nuance, but the 1988 Krug remains a Champagne of…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

(note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has a lot of reduction on the nose, which compromises terroir expression. It is difficult to tell how much is behind it. The palate is sapid and a bit chewy in style—a “solid” Les Cazetiers. It is not flattering at the moment, but there is plenty of substance…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good ruby-red. Spicy, slightly roasted red berry, tobacco and black olive aromas. Supple, vinous and nicely delineated; shapely and approachable for this wine. Good ripe finish.