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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.2% alcohol) Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of plum, flint and nutty oak. Large-scaled, rich and explosive, offering impressive volume and a sensation of power. The ripeness here verges on syrupy and this lush, round wine may well need a decade to lose some of its baby fat and assume its adult shape. The…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country…

Chianti Classico: The Stellar 2015s and Surprising 2014s (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Chianti Classico is a lovely, midweight wine to drink now and over the next few years. Stylistically, the Classico is quite a bit more restrained than most of the other wines in the range. Freshness and aromatic presence are the signatures.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers darker fruit than the Clos du Château, beautifully defined with hints of dried rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, quite fresh and saline. Filigree tannins and a dab of soy wrap around the composed finish. Delightful.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru has a minerally bouquet that is a little more pixelated and brighter than the Les Evocelles. There is wonderful focus and heart-warming purity of fruit, equally red and black. Elegant and poised, the palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It is not a powerful Gevrey-Chambertin, but it has…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru, matured in 50% new oak, has a complex bouquet with brambly red fruit, cranberry, sous-bois and iris flower scents that unfolds wonderfully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy dark berry fruits that exert a gentle grip, structured and linear with a granular texture on the…