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Focus on the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2010)

(15% alcohol) Dark ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of blackcurrant, coffee and vanilla on the atypically restrained nose. Enters broad and plump, then shows a distinctly restrained sweetness to its blackberry, blueberry and coffee flavors. Finishes ultra-smooth and refined. Though I like this rather politely styled, adult version of Masseto, those who yearn for the…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2011 Vintage is a very pretty wine in this highly challenging vintage. Apricot, mint, dried herbs and a kiss of French oak open nicely in the glass. There is some of the savory character of 2011, but it is nicely woven into the wine’s fabric. To be sure, the 2011 is a slender vintage…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Flaccianello della Pieve is a blend of Fontodi’s vineyards, mostly three main vineyards planted on sites with very dense, heavy rocks. Dark, pliant and inviting, the 2020 is so expressive today. Black cherry, plum, spice, lavender, licorice and mocha are seamless in the glass. The 2020 is a fine Flaccianello with a bright…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2021)

The 2018 Fontalloro is bright, floral and full of energy. In most vintages, Fontalloro is quite open, but the 2018 is especially nervy and taut. That won’t be an issue in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. Sangiovese is so expressive here. A whole range of floral and savory accents lingers…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero is broad, ample and so expressive, all while showing the finesse and classicism that are such a signature of this wine. All elements are so well balanced in a Barolo that speaks to harmony above all else. Sweet red cherry, cedar, orange peel, tobacco and cinnamon give the 2018 tons of…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Cerretta is another wine in this range that comes across as dried out and lacking fruit, with only modest site expression. In 2018, the Cerretta is decidedly fleeting, with modest complexity and not much in the way of depth.