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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pontet-Canet is a heady, exotic wine. Inky dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, licorice, spice and tobacco are front and center. Readers will find an unabashedly opulent, full-throttle 2005 with quite a bit more oak influence and overall extraction than is the norm these days. Even so, the 2005 is a young, young wine with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice, minerals, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and pungent cedar; just this side of exotic. Wonderfully silky, sweet and thick, with a powerful minerality framing the currant, graphite and spice flavors. This boasts superb inner-mouth energy and great length, with the full, ripe tannins totally enrobed by…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is fermented in a new 500-litre barrel, racked into two older barrels in September and a 50-litre stainless steel container for the rest. It has an attractive brioche and wild peach scented bouquet that wants to be noticed. “Look at me!” it cries. The palate is well balanced with some…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A beguiling mix of crushed stone, black currants, wild herbs and hints of animal musk smolders up from the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. This is deeply textural and velvety in feel, but with energizing acidity to balance, as ripe wild berries and exotic spices cascade across a core of saline-minerals. There’s simply so much power…

South Africa: Where Are We Now? (Sep 2024)

The 2023 Aristargos is a Chenin-based Rhône-style blend from granite soils, aged in concrete and used barrels. It offers yellow fruit, pear and light wax scents from the small amount of skin contact. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, revealing lightly spiced notes of orange pith and melon on the…

Gigondas Maintains Its Tempo (Feb 2020)

Deep, bright ruby. Spice-accented cherry, dark berries and pungent flowers on the nose. Supple and open-knit, offering juicy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of vanilla on the back half. Round, even tannins frame a long, smoky finish that leaves a subtly sweet cherry note behind.