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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, licorice, minerals, cigar box and cedary oak. Juicy and fine-grained, showing unusual clarity and class for this Pauillac. A lovely balance of sweetness and acidity gives this wine plenty of early personality. Finishes with suave, building tannins and very good energy. Less austere than usual for this…

Albion Gets Serious: English Sparkling Wine (Jul 2020)

The 2016 Rosé from Gusbourne has a slightly deeper salmon/bronze hue than I was expecting, but with a fine mousse. The bouquet does not mess about, delivering strawberry and light peachy aromas. Not amazingly tense, but clean, and if you like your rosé fruity instead of steely, then you will be pleased. The palate is…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild races out of the glass with notable textural intensity. Explosive and deep, with striking balance, Lafite dazzles in this vintage. The 2023 is a somber, virile Lafite endowed with remarkable depth and tons of sheer character. Plum, blackberry, gravel, pencil shavings, graphite, mocha and lavender build into the intense, palate-staining finish. The…

Bordeaux 2023 in Bottle: Coming Around Again

The 2023 Lafite-Rothschild, which was bottled in July, is a very succinct First Growth and politely declines to sprint out of the blocks. That is Lafite’s style. But these aromas unfurl with each swirl of the glass: very pure black cherries and light blueberry fruit, violet petal, hints of humidor in the background. Superb delineation….

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Conseillante is a regal and utterly exquisite Pomerol from the very first taste. Technical Director Marielle Cazaux and her team turned out a jewel of a wine. Silky tannins and lifted, precise aromatics make a strong first impression. Inky dark fruit, pain grillé, lavender, spice, menthol and a kiss of new French…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Conseillante was given a two-hour decant and then monitored over the following 12 hours. What a stupendous Pomerol! It has a bravura nose that immediately seduces the olfactory senses, delivering a cornucopia of black cherries, cassis, crushed violets and iris. Such intensity here, and then it blossoms, accentuating its floral component while…