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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cheval Blanc has been nothing less than magical on two separate occasions. A wine of breathtaking nuance and sophistication, the 2005 Cheval dazzles right out of the gate. With a few hours of aeration the aromatics blossom and the wine is explosive in every dimension. Espresso, rose petal, mint, blood orange and incense…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2005 Cheval Blanc has a very intense bouquet, conveying so much energy that it almost knocks you sideways. That strong marine influence remains, the aromatics have opened up since I last tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied with firm backbone, yet more pliant than previous bottles, offering dense black fruit laced with mint and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium red-ruby. Plum, currant, brown spices, leather and tobacco leaf on the nose, along with some smoky oak. Distinctly firm and herbal but with a sweetly spicy quality to the flavors of cassis, lead pencil and tobacco leaf. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins and a repeating herbal note.

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

((tasted from tanks, awaiting final blending. #1) Explosively floral, with remarkable purity and a strong licorice tone. #2: Spicier sample, with strong cherry pit and graphite on the palate and a bright, zesty quality. #3: Solid and chewy, with strong bitter cherry, dark chocolate and tobacco qualities (this batch gives the wine its skeleton). #4…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Brut Vintage is a tasty, straightforward Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. Orchard fruit, baked apple tart, pastry, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this open-knit, easygoing Champagne.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Mouton-Rothschild has always been a rather disappointing First Growth, and despite the perfect provenance of this ex-château bottle, its juxtaposition against the 1996 does it no favors. It has an earthy, loose-knit, tobacco-stained bouquet that never clicks out of second gear. The palate is similar, reasonably well balanced but lacking cohesion and, in…