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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(80% of this wine is declassified Chalumeaux, according to Brian Sieve, who noted that winemaker Jacques Montagnon is aging one-third of this cuvée in 228-liter barrels because of the wine’s reductive tendency): Bright yellow. Ripe, buttery aromas of yellow peach and musky white flowers. Leaner than the village Chassagne, but enlivened by sappy lemony acidity….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes 75% from Chalumaux that was declassified in the late Seventies (there is a great story about why that happened, but I’ll leave it for another time). It has a delightful bouquet of green apple, white flowers and orange zest that bursts from the glass. The palate is well balanced with…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru contains a little more new oak than the regular cuvée, though it is also 100% whole cluster fruit. It has a supremely well defined bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and wet limestone aromas that seem to gain intensity with aeration. The…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru contains two-thirds whole cluster but a little more new oak than the regular cuvée (as a reminder, it comes from the parcel that lies adjacent to La Tâche). It has a little more definition and darker fruit on the nose, developing more floral scents with aeration….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru is 100% whole clusters, which shapes this wine at the moment. Black cherries, bilberry and oyster shell scents, very well poised with impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied, quite strict and linear. This serious and almost stoic Pommard needs a little more animation on the finish.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has a slightly more appley, linear and stonier bouquet than the more comely Folatières. You could argue the aromatics deliver more typicité. The palate is well-balanced, crisp and taut, with plenty of crushed stone character and more complexity towards the finish. This Puligny carries intellectual weight and should…