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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Duhart-Milon, which is aged in 50% new oak, has a clean, precise bouquet of mineral-driven black fruit and touches of pencil lead and cedar. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and focused, with sappy black fruit and fine depth. This is a typically classically styled Duhart-Milon, though it does not quite have the persistence…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Duhart-Milon is a potent, brooding wine. Dark fruit, herbs, licorice and incense fill out the layers nicely. The oak still needs time to come together, but that is what élevage is for. The 2021 is a serious Duhart. Whether or not it will acquire a bit more charm remains an open question.

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Beaumont offers plenty of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit on the nose, intermixed with cedar and subtle pencil shaving scents—discrete, but it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and a bit chewy with sappy red fruit. The finish "fluffs its lines" and comes across as rather simple, especially in contrast to its appealing…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Batailley appears to have gone up a couple of gears since I tasted it just after bottling. It has a perfumed, wonderfully precise nose, almost Margaux-like in style, with scents of cassis and crushed violet blossoming in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent blackberry and hints of licorice on the entry….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 La Tour Haut-Brion is a vintage that I had never tasted. It probably remains under the shadow(s) of La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion, which might be unfair, because this is a very lovely Graves at 30 years of age. The bouquet offers scents of raspberry coulis, brown spices, warm gravel and rose petal…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very well defined bouquet with crushed stone mixing with apple blossom and light, almost petrolly aromas, Riesling-inspired! The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, good weight in the mouth. The 30% new oak is neatly assimilated. Maybe it just needs a little more…