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2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Carruades de Lafite graces the palate with dark red cherry, plum, spice and tobacco notes. A supple, accessible Pauillac, the 2013 is best enjoyed in its youth, before the fruit begins to fade. The Carruades is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Tasted twice.

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Vivid ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, licorice, pepper and minerals, plus a whiff of smoked meat. Sappy, racy and focused, with sharply delineated flavors of cherry and blackberry. Comes across as reserved today owing to an impression of bright acidity. Youthfully tight wine, finishing with very good purity and energy and a whiplash of dark…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau flirts with perfection. There is stunning delineation on the nose. The precision and definition of the aromatics are like nothing else, revealing shimmering red berry fruit intermixed with rose petal and a hint of Morello cherry. The palate is a lattice of lace-like tannins, vibrating with…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau flirts with perfection. There is stunning delineation on the nose. The precision and definition of the aromatics are like nothing else, revealing shimmering red berry fruit intermixed with rose petal and a hint of Morello cherry. The palate is a lattice of lace-like tannins, vibrating with…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good medium red. Fresh but reticent aromas of red berries, dried flowers, spices, flint, caramel and complex soil tones. Juicy, tight and youthfully imploded but already hinting at compelling sweetness of fruit. The very tight, gripping tannins will need many years of patience to harmonize with the wine’s mid-palate material. I marginally preferred this wine…