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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

With the first tilt of the glass, you know that this is not your average 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. An enthralling bouquet of spiced citrus peels, roses, sour cherries, crushed rocks and animal musk keeps you at the edge of your seat. This is remarkably pure and delicate, seeming to hover across the palate, yet…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is deceptively fresh and floral at first, deepening further with time in the glass, as earthy minerals give way to savory cherry sauce and hints of camphor. This is silky, almost creamy in feel, with ripe red fruits and spices giving way to hints of licorice and tobacco. A…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2016 Block 2 Chardonnay has a compelling bouquet full of tension: citrus lemon, apple blossom, hints of wet granite and white flowers. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and linear at first and then fanning out towards the finish with notes of orange rind and a touch of…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a transparent and very Pinoté nose. Pretty and elegant, quite mineral driven with very impressive focus. This has the aromatics precision of a Swiss clock – ethereal. The palate is velvety smooth with fine depth, slightly creamy in texture due to the new oak. Quite lavish though not ostentatious,…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Deep red. Restrained aromas of cassis, red apple, licorice and black pepper, lifted by an intriguing citrus note. Then juicy and easygoing in the mouth, with light flavors of raspberry and red licorice. Finishes simple and with only average length, but I like this wine’s polite style…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good red-ruby. Cassis and licorice aromas are complicated by herbs and black pepper. Sweet and fresh, but with slightly jammy flavors of dark fruits and licorice showing a faint alcoholic warmth. Rather easygoing wine owing to its ripeness but has plenty of ripe tannins for support.