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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru offers exquisite delineation on the nose, real transparency here, very pure and yet there is no escaping the intensity contained in this Clos Saint-Jacques. The palate is supremely well-balanced though it is higher in acidity than I would have expected. Killer mineralité, this sashays along with style and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated bright, dark ruby. Perfumed, vibrant, very youthful aromas of cassis, violet and bitter chocolate. Dense and powerful, with great clarity of flavor thanks to a terrific spine of acidity. Almost painfully structured wine but not at all hard. Finishes very long and gripping, with a note of bitter chocolate. Drink 2012 through 2040.

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

The 1998 Chambertin is one of the real surprises in this tasting. From a vintage that never got much of a look, Rousseau’s Chambertin is a pure and total delight. It is not the most complex wine in the vertical, nor is it the most pedigreed, but it is absolutely exquisite, as all of its…

The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

The 1998 Chambertin Grand Cru has a leafier bouquet than the 1996 compared alongside, undergrowth and cracked black pepper, hints of peppermint, even a touch of liquorice. It does not quite have the breeding of the aforementioned 1996. The palate is smooth on the entry, fleshy with moderate depth. Mellow, cohesive, lightly spiced, surprising richness…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Lynch Bages has an intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, iodine and light minty aromas, still quite youthful after 20 years. Touches of melted tar emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and firm grip, a little toasty in style with an assertive and bold tarry finish. Give this another three…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Dame de Montrose is broody and backward on the nose, just a touch of reduction that soon blows off, yet the predominantly black fruit remains tight, fleeting hints of bayleaf and black tea surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite compact in style but rather linear and missing…