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Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The 2001 L’Hermitage has aged gracefully. Vivid iodine, black olive tapenade, dried violet, forest floor, cured meat and wet tea bag all race out of the glass. Medium-bodied and distinctively refreshing, the palate gradually brings out more flavors, revealing dried red and black fruits, game, black pepper and a finely tuned herbal edge. Coming in…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimension. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy, with…

2020 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha develop later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimensions. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy,…

The 2021 Napa Valley Cabernets, Part One (Dec 2023)

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most brooding, explosive young wines I have ever tasted here. The natural concentration of this drought vintage comes through loud and clear. Huge, youthful tannins reinforce the wine’s potent feel. Waves of graphite, leather, licorice, grilled herbs and lavender saturate the palate, perfectly playing off a core…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2004 Blanc des Millenaires offers a striking combination of freshness and the complexity that develops in bottle. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper lend aromatic brilliance to this lithe, super-finessed Blanc des Blancs. I have long adored the 2004s from the Côtes des Blancs. The Blanc des Millenaires is another terrific example…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cos d’Estournel has a wonderful bouquet. Compared directly with Montrose, there is a notch more exuberance and precision, with layers of rich but delineated plummy black fruit laced with rose petals and dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There’s a lovely depth of fruit and a sense of symmetry plus…