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The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(100% vendange entier; 55% new oak): Deep, dark red. Deeply pitched aromas of medicinal black cherry and clove; less floral and spicy than the regular Malconsorts but smells more important. Sappy and extremely concentrated; hugely rich without any impression of heaviness. According to Sieve, the rows of vines that go into this cuvée are a…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Roasted berries, musky espresso, tobacco leaf and a whiff of prune on the nose. Lush and supple, with more obvious sweetness than the 2005 but less shape and thrust. In a chunky style. My suspicion is that the 2005 will ultimately turn out to be a more refined and satisfying wine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saints-Georges Clos des Thorey 1er Cru comes from the older vines, around 70 years of age, on Cordon Royat, some of which were uprooted in recent years to balance the yield. It contains 50% new oak. The bouquet is quite introverted at the moment and the stem addition a little more tangible…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 d’Issan has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry, violets, rose petal and light undergrowth aromas, displaying fine lift and great intensity. The medium-bodied palate offers fine-grained tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Fresh and vibrant, with a very harmonious, elegant and persistent finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

Just as it was from barrel, the 2016 d’Issan is bold and succulent. Dark cherry, iron, smoke, tobacco, leather and dried rose petal all fill out nicely in a supple, easygoing Margaux. The 2016 will benefit from another few years in bottle, although it is nevertheless quite fine, even in the early going. It will…