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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Wild meaty nose lifted by a floral element. Sweet, fine-grained and fairly generous in the mouth, with plenty of baby fat to its dark fruit flavors. But ultimately a wine of moderate richness and concentration. The persistent but slightly dry-edged finish shows a sweet/sour quality.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Réserve de la Comtesse feels unusually primal on the nose with brine-tinged black fruit, touches of graphite but overall it does not come across as particularly finessed. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a little extracted in style with impressive weight, just lacking a little sophistication towards the finish. That said, it…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, medium ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat, licorice and herbs. Ripe and serious for a second wine, offering nicely concentrated, lively flavors of currant, dark raspberry, spices, herbs and licorice. Finishes with plenty of dusty tannins and very good grip and verve.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

(300) Deep ruby-red. Brooding, multidimensional aromas and flavors of blackberry, minerals, flowers, spices, chocolate and musky earth. Silky and utterly spherical, yet with superb definition and lift carrying straight through to the finish. This titillates all the taste receptors of the palate. A wine of great purity and precision, finishing quite powerful, with firm but…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, if that’s not good enough, was poured en magnum. It has a heavenly bouquet with intense red fruit: wild strawberry, morello cherry, freshly tilled loam and crushed stone. Crystalline. The palate is perfectly balanced with unerring structure and precision, perhaps in a larger format, more linear than expected, with beguiling…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of cherry, currant, tobacco and smoky, nutty oak, with traces of vanilla and sweet butter; showing less of the early treble notes of flowers and spices than usual for La Tache but they are lurking in the background. Then wonderfully supple, silky and sweet, conveying an impression of brooding extract; quite…