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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

2015 Beaujolais: Monumental But Often Atypical (Dec 2017)

Deep vivid ruby. Mineral-accented blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complemented by a sexy floral nuance that gains strength with aeration. Juicy and concentrated yet lively as well, offering intense red and blue fruit and spicecake flavors that are supported and sharpened by a spine of zesty acidity. Sappy, appealingly sweet and extremely long on…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good bright full red. Explosive aromas of flowers, minerals, smoky oak and underbrush. Tight and youthfully imploded in the mouth, and a bit hardened by the gas. This peppery, savory wine shows no easy sweetness today and finishes a bit disjointed, with somewhat tough tannins. Will this blossom with seven or eight years of cellaring?

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous, intensely fruit-focused yet finessed and complex, opening with masses of ripe black cherries, licorice and spice complicated by cedar shavings and a lifting hint of fresh mint. This sweeps across the palate with textures of pure silk, displaying a core of ripe raspberries guided by vibrant acidity…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is in no mood to show all its cards today. This is a decidedly dark, brooding Brunello for Poggio di Sotto. In 2010, the fruit is quite dark, which suggests a late harvest, perhaps pushed to the limit. At the same time, there is plenty of underlying structure and tannin….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Calon-Ségur is light on the nose with loam, autumn leaves and leather aromas, though there is little sign of any herbaceousness. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant, slightly tart entry. It’s not complex with pretty blackcurrant and cassis fruit, but there is an attractive harmony and residual sweetness on the finish. Worth…