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Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2005 La Tâche Grand Cru is just starting to be approachable, although I would not begrudge anyone who might prefer to cellar it for a few more years. I am struck by the wine’s huge core of dark fruit and magnificent sense of proportion. Time in the glass brings out the classic range of…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Deep violet. Highly perfumed, smoke-accented cherry and blackberry scents are complicated by suggestions of exotic spices, candied flowers and licorice. Supple and broad on the palate, offering vibrant black and blue fruit, spicecake, violet pastille and bacon flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. The floral note repeats emphatically on the strikingly long…

Victoria: Cutting Edge Meets Classic (Mar 2024)

The 2017 Cabernet Malbec Agincourt offers up plush, inky, violet and mulberry aromas, which are still bright and youthful. There is great balance between fleshy blueberry flavors and chalky tannins, with surprising elegance to finish. This will age well.

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Medium ruby-red. Exotic aromas of currant, plum, tobacco, minerals, smoke and spices, complicated by hints of cherry-cola and pepper. At once generous and juicy, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character and a strong impression of soil to the flavors of candied redcurrant, tobacco and spices. Finishes broad and long, with a fine dusting of sweet tannins….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pape Clément has a forward nose with a touch of Wellington boot – rubbery aromas that obscure some of the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s mature after 20 years with ferrous red fruit, leading to a savory finish that suggests bottles should be opened in the next 4-5…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Full red-ruby. Vinous aromas of currant, milk chocolate, tobacco, hot stones and leather. Juicy and fresh but leaner than the 2005 or 2006, with classically dry flavors of redcurrant, plum and smoke. In contrast to the showy 2005, this seems to be going into a shell, with the serious tannins currently dominating the wine’s fruit.