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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 La Fleur-Pétrus has a well defined nose: red fruit mixed with leather and undergrowth, wild heather and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant, quite fine tannins that frame the spicy red fruit, silky smooth with a caressing, sensual and rather irony finish. The second bottle at Bordeaux Index demonstrated a little more…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Latour-à-Pomerol feels a little smudged on the nose compared to its peers, touches of mocha infusing ripe red fruit that doesn’t quite display the energy of the 2015. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine thread of acidity. However, I would not rank this among the best Latour-à-Pomerols in recent…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Latour à Pomerol is a very beautiful wine. It is also quite a bit more reticent than most Pomerols in this vintage. Savory herb, leather, rose petal, blood orange, cedar, tobacco, menthol and dried cherry lift from the glass. En primeur, the 2016 was quite sensual, whereas today is decidedly powerful and structured….

Nebbiolo in Its Many Guises: Alto Piemonte & Valtellina (apr 2020)

The 2014 Gattinara Molsino is shy and introverted in its first impression, with quite a bit of intensity lurking in the background. Today, the Molsino is not as expressive as the Valferana, but its day will come. With a bit of aeration, the 2014 starts to show the structure, layers of nuance and resonance that…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Le Corton Grand Cru does not really cohere on the nose, which is slightly acetic and high-toned compared to its peers. The spicy, energetic palate has plenty of sour cherry and balsamic notes on the entry, but lacks cohesion and comes across rather monotone on the tapered, austere finish. Tasted blind at the…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2017 Corton Grand Cru is exceptionally beautiful. The aromatics alone are beguiling. A burst of sweet red berry fruit and flowers emerges from this gracious, sensual Corton. The 2017 is so expressive, vivid and elegant, even though it was bottled just a few months before this tasting. In a word: impressive. I…