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In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Black cherries, smoke, incense, melted road tar and graphite meld into black fruit as the 2010 Galatrona (Merlot) opens up in the glass. This is a decidedly backward, brooding Galatrona that will require more patience than normal. Today, the 2010 comes across as not fully developed and in need of time to integtrated the French…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Clos de La Roche is explosive from the very first taste. Dark fruit, smoke, tobacco, licorice and incense all take shape in the glass. At times wild and exotic, the 2012 is rich and deep, with huge tannins and imposing structure. Over time, though, the wine becomes more delicate and perfumed. Dried rose…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Moderately saturated medium red. Highly aromatic nose combines raspberry, strawberry, clove oil, dried flowers, smoked meat and pungent minerality. Silky, dense and fine-grained, with a high percentage of whole-cluster fermentation energizing the middle palate and giving this very complex Clos de la Roche lovely perfume and early sex appeal. But this is built for a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich, sumptuous and explosive in the glass, the 2015 is pure class. The flavors are deep and boldly sketched in this sumptuous, spectacularly ripe Pomerol. Inky blue/purplish fruit, spice, lavender, licorice and menthol all develop in the glass,…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Vieux-Château-Certan can be highly variable from bottle to bottle. After two disappointing examples, this came out of the blue. It has an intense and powerful bouquet of black cherry, tobacco, brown spices and loamy aromas. This is very complex and compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, firm tannins surrounded by plenty of…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan vindicates my assessment from just a few months ago. This bottle still shows traces of VA when contrasted against, say, La Conseillante or Hosanna. The palate has a sweet entry with candied orange peel and cough candy notes. This has light tannins and a keen line of acidity, though again,…