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On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella (Apr 2022)

A burst of mocha and clove is balanced by dusty black cherries and savory herbs as the 2017 La Poja blossoms in the glass. This is a heady and extroverted expression with a pretty inner sweetness contrasted by tart black fruits and inner herb tones. Dark chocolate, cloves, hints of vanilla and candied lavender can…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a rich, heady wine. In 2009, Billecart-Salmon opted not to use lots aged in oak, which, along with partially blocked malolactic fermentation, helps explain the wine’s freshness and verve. Lemon peel, white flowers, white pepper and chalk are all beautifully delineated. There’s gorgeous density and power…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA (Jun 2025)

The 2010 Dom Ruinart is as magnificent as it has always been. Once again, I am mesmerized by the wine’s freshness, precision and detail, especially in a vintage that was so challenging in Champagne. The 2010 will be one of the most enduring legacies of Chef de Cave Frédéric Panaïotis' life and career.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a wonderful Pauillac. Served in tandem in Pichon Baron, I don’t think it has quite the same class…but it’s close. Certainly, stylistically, they are very different. Slightly more high-toned, with layers of black cherries and cassis fruit. Iodine and pressed violets seep through with aeration. Very composed, the…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(70% vendange entier; 20% new oak): Alluring aromas of red cherry, redcurrant, rose petal and spices. Sweet but firm wine with lovely inner-mouth energy and a touch of minerality giving precision to its flavors of red fruits and flowers. Finishes dry and classic, with a solid tannic spine and excellent length.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is a real stunner. All the elements fall into place in an utterly spellbinding white wine endowed with class and pedigree to burn. A host of orchard fruit, lemon oil, mint and sweet floral notes flesh out, but it is the wine’s overall feel and phenomenal, precise finish that…