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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru veers towards a more malic style, a bit lean for its class with some reduction. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry. It shows fine depth, though it doesn’t possess the mineral core of the previous wine. Nevertheless, it does build nicely, so there is ample weight and concentration…

Domaine Leroy: The 2015s From Bottle (Mar 2018)

The 2015 Pommard Les Vignots is outrageously beautiful, not to mention a remarkable wine with which to kick off the tasting. Bold and racy, the 2015 exudes a level of depth and textural richness that is frankly hard to imagine at this level. The Vignots is surprisingly expressive, open and giving today.

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet with dark berry fruit, crushed stone and light iris flower scents. Impressive freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid, oyster shell-tinged entry. It shows black fruit rather than red and a typical Morey-like backbone, but I appreciate the sapidity on the…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. More expressive on the nose today than the Amoureuses, offering ineffable scents of black raspberry, lavender and flinty, smoky minerality. By far the plushest and deepest of these 2014s but still with outstanding definition and verve. This wonderfully fine-grained, classically dry Musigny boasts bulletproof fruit and finishes with impressive medicinal reserve. Beginning…

Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016 (Feb 2025)

A nose more floral than fruity, leading Paul Wasserman to suggest it seemed to be whole cluster. (Mugnier destems every vintage.) Very elegant and subtle, this wine opens up nicely in the glass. A mineral component shows up and the fruit is more red than black. It’s a pretty light ruby color, with medium body….

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal is just fabulous. Chiseled and nuanced to the core, the 2008 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, graphite, mint, lime, chalk and white flowers all race across the palate. This is classic Cristal in a cool, late-ripening year.