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Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2004 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is ostensibly a sibling of the Chambolle-Musigny in stylistic terms. It is slightly sharper on the nose, yet also quite rustic with a ferrous, undergrowth element that becomes more pronounced with aeration. There is also a welcome hint of dried orange peel that comes across both on the nose and…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(the domain’s Nuits-Saint-Georges holdings went into this cuvee Medium red. Red fruits, smoked meat and underbrush on the nose. Silky and rich if not particularly primary; flavor dominated by cinnamon, mocha and smoke. Finishes with good length and aromatic subtlety.

Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

Lalou Bize-Leroy’s 2014 Vosne-Romanée Genaivrières is simply magnificent. A wine of precision, tension and nuance, the 2014 is delicate and beautifully lifted in the glass. Sweet red cherry and pomegranate fruit, silky tannins and expressive aromatics convey an impression of total sensuality. The Genaivrières is one of the more feminine wines in the range. There…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru needed a little encouragement from the glass. Eventually it reveals captivating scents of honeysuckle, petrichor and pressed yellow flowers, an underlying spiciness that comes through with aeration. The palate has a beguiling symmetry from the start: a killer line of acidity counterbalancing the intensity of this Chevalier, gentle grip towards…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru shows a little more clarity, a touch more crystalline on the nose compared to the Bienvenue, scents of Granny Smith apples, petrichor and gunflint. It is controlled and penetrating. The palate is extremely well balanced with a fine silver bead of acidity that cuts through the concentrated malic fruit, a…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comes from 0.11 hectares of 80-year-old vines that yield two barrels (one new barrel and the other tailored to the size of the crop). It has a very intense bouquet of citrus fruit, yellow flowers, orange blossom, crushed limestone and white peach – a nose that takes no prisoners. The…