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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is bright and finely cut, with tremendous energy, as the best wines from this site tend to be. Citrus peel, crushed rocks mint and white pepper add striking layers of nuance and tension. The 2018 is going to need at least a handful of years to enter…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Batailley has plenty of fruit on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, a touch of shoe leather and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitterness on the entry, nicely balanced though, cedar and tobacco infusing the black fruit with a touch more fruit on the finish compared to Haut-Batailley. It just needs more…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Brilliant ruby. Cherry, red currant and pungent flowers on the spice- and mineral-accented nose. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry, dark chocolate and succulent herb flavors that are slow to unfurl. Shows very good energy and nervy cut on the persistent finish, which features a suggestion of cherry pit and gently…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Saint-Aubin Village comes from three parcels and sports a discrete reduction on the nose. This is nicely focused with plenty of energy. The palate is really convincing with an energetic opening, a seductive mixture of citric acidity intertwined with tropical notes of lime and apricot. Very focused and brimming with life, this will…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Giusto di Notri plump, juicy and delicious, with terrific palate presence and depth. Ripe red cherry, plum, mocha and torrefection notes flesh out. Sweet herb, tobacco, licorice and menthol add aromatic nuance. I would prefer to drink the 2014 sooner rather than later given its mid-weight structure.