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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is cut from a similar cloth to the Les Pucelles on the nose: reserved, mineral-driven with hints of orange blossom emerging with time, later more Granny Smith apples. The palate is strict and precise, demonstrating impressive weight, especially towards the back end. Maybe not quite as complex as the best…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of lemon thyme, crushed limestone, and traces of orange pith and citrus peel that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is underpinned with a fine, almost razor-sharp bead of acidity. There is a wonderful crescendo of flavor here, leading to a multifaceted, lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet, fresh, taut and understated compared to its peers, perhaps the most elegant of an octet of Chevaliers tasted blind. The well-balanced palate delivers real power, offering flavors of candied orange peel and spices and a fine saline undercurrent. Harmonious, elegant yet intense, this should age…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Precise, high-pitched scents of lemon and lime ice and crushed rock. The palate communicates outstanding stony, limey intensity that’s accentuated by an impression of strong acidity. But despite its penetrating cut and low pH (3.15, according to Pierre Vincent), the wine’s spine is covered by adequate flesh, even in the early going. Flavors of pineapple…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale yellow. Less expressive on the nose than the Bienvenue, conveying a honeyed ripeness and a hint of resiny oak. Then tightly clenched in the mouth, with a penetrating orange juice flavor dominating. Not at all a fat wine, this is hard to taste today and needs time to expand. Its power suggests that it…