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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Enseigneres, which sees 15% new oak, has an appealing bouquet with touches of walnut and hazelnut lending a Meursault-like character. The well-balanced palate features clementine and light mango notes. Quite linear and strict, demonstrating fine precision toward the finish. This will be a "correct" Chassagne-Montrachet.

A Tale of Two Extremes: The 2020 Brunellos and 2019 Riservas (Nov 2024)

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass with a lovely floral bouquet, mixing rose petal, lavender and violet with hints of worn leather and dusty earth. This is a model of balance and purity, with crisp wild berry fruits guided by fresh acidity as a cascade of sweet spice gives way to fine-grained…

2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage (Apr 2024)

The 2021 Chardonnay is a punchy little number with vim and vigor. It offers sweetness of fruit that comes with a bracing, bright, citrus-like acidity, creating firmness on the finish. This effect is the result of the high incidence of shot berries, which is a trait of the Mendoza clone and was particularly prevalent in…

Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Monte Bello opens with a burst of dark red fruit. Leather, tobacco and mocha open nicely in the glass. There’s no getting past smoke taint in this wine. That’s a shame, as the flavors are nicely delineated and the tannins are well balanced for the year in this small-scaled Monte Bello. The 2020…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Opaque inky-purple. Flamboyant, exotic nose offers aromas of superripe black fruits, smoked meat, coffee and dark chocolate liqueur. Then very ripe and soft in style, with creamy flavors of ripe dark fruits supported by soft, polished tannins. Finishes moderately long, with a lingering floral note. Tasted three different times with different impressions, hence the wider-than-usual…

Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 2009 Cantenac Brown does not quite deliver the complexity or breeding of the 2010 when compared directly, yet it is still attractive with strawberry and raspberry fruit, iodine and light marine scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine sappiness on the entry, spicier than the 2010, lively with just a little less precision displayed…