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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.6% alcohol; from a crop level of just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Deep, bright red with ruby tones. Deeper and darker on the nose than the young 2016, offering hints of black raspberry, medicinal cherry, mocha and crushed rock; seems already to be closing down. Plump and thick in the style of the year; superripe…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

It is several years since I last tasted the 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, which Jacques Devauges made in his first year. This has a more rustic bouquet compared to recent vintages: brambly red fruit, iron filings, and that “rusty nail” component that I observed back in 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Hosanna has a delectable, well-defined and complex bouquet with red berry fruit, freshly tilled loam, mocha and light irony scents percolating through with time. This appears to have gained delineation in recent years. The palate is medium-bodied, lightly peppered and beautifully balanced, with fine-boned tannins and a very satisfying, harmonious finish. This comes…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A dense, powerful Pomerol, the 2015 Hosanna hits the palate with a huge center of fruit and layers of flavor that open up effortlessly in the glass. Hosanna is easily the most exotically ripe, flamboyant wine in the Mouiex range. Dense, powerful and also quite structured, with huge tannins, Hosanna is going to need at…

Santa Cruz Mountains – The Chameleon (Oct 2024)

The 2015 Monte Bello is still a well-protected fortress of a wine. A more red-fruited and tobacco-laden Monte Bello, it’s mouthwateringly juicy and stubbornly tightly wound, giving rise to the question of whether it will ever let its guard down. Even so, the stuffing is undeniably there, so you might as well just keep waiting….

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jan 2025)

The 2014 Dominus is a pretty, relatively delicate wine with soft tannins, notwithstanding its fine depth. Red cherry fruit, spice, cedar, leather and pipe tobacco all show the first signs of maturity. I imagine the 2014 will be at its best over the next decade, perhaps a bit more, even if it does not have…