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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has a typical nose from this Pessac-Léognan estate. It's understated but beguiling, with cedar, undergrowth-tinged red fruit and just a subtle background dab of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. This is fleshy for a Domaine de Chevalier and perhaps has less grip. A judicious dash of black…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Domaine de Chevalier has a typical nose from this Pessac-Léognan estate. It's understated but beguiling, with cedar, undergrowth-tinged red fruit and just a subtle background dab of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. This is fleshy for a Domaine de Chevalier and perhaps has less grip. A judicious dash of black…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2007 Cos d’Estournel is what you might call a “serviceable” Claret. There is nothing pretentious or ambitious on the nose with lilting red fruit of dark cherries and wild strawberry. The secondary aromas offering hints of Italian delicatessen and meat juices. The palate is medium-bodied with that hint of liquorish that I have remarked…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Deep, bright red-ruby color. Aromas of plum, redcurrant and kirsch are complicated by sexy woodsmoke, soy sauce and flowers. Silky and rather lush, with a restrained sweetness and considerable finesse to its moderately ripe, sweet middle palate. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lingering notes of minerals, herbs, dried flowers and smoke. A lovely 2007.

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Pavillon Blanc has an exceedingly Loire-like bouquet with impressive vitality. White tea and orange blossom traces emerge with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with Anjou pear and Golden Delicious notes. Fine weight and sour lemon impart tension on the finish. My only quibble is that it is a bit short, but otherwise,…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a…