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Focus on California (May 2000)

Saturated ruby. Liqueur-like superripe nose combines roasted cherry, black raspberry, minerals and Valrhona chocolate; distinctly port-like notes. Voluptuous and huge in the mouth, with explosive fruit bordering on confectionary; flavor of chocolate-covered currants. Much more powerfully structured than the estate second wine but the backbone is hidden under a tidal wave of lush fruit. Endless…

Vinous Table: Napa in the City 2022: The BYOB Gala Dinner (Feb 2023)

The 1997 Harlan Estate has long been a controversial wine because of some bottle variation. There is no question about this 1997 magnum. The wine is unquestionably extraordinary. Rich and opulent to the core, the 1997 possesses tremendous intensity from start to finish. Blackberry jam, licorice, chocolate and sweet spice lead into a crescendo of aromas and…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, smoked meat, roasted tomato, earth and tobacco leaf; deeper and more complex than the Napanook bottling. A step up in complexity, vibrancy and precision of flavor. Silky and fairly deep, with slightly truffley chocolate and tobacco flavors. Finishes with big but suave tannins and a hint of licorice. This…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown has a more reductive nose than its peers—the aromatics are not coming out to play on this occasion. But in the glass, it does have real complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, though not quite as precise as its peers, with a little chewiness toward the finish. This does not engage as…

Central Tuscany – Maremma, Montepulciano, Carmignano and Beyond (Nov 2016)

The 2014 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is a solid wine to drink now and over the next few years. Sweet tobacco, licorice, dried cherries, game and earthiness are laced into the soft, open-knit finish. There are no underripe or green flavors, but not much depth either. The 2014 is best enjoyed over the next year or…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2021 New Releases (Mar 2021)

The 2015 Les Forts de Latour is silky, perfumed and wonderfully nuanced from the very first taste. Crushed red berry, cedar, tobacco, mint and blood orange lend striking aromatic nuance. Ample and resonant in feel, yet with mid-weight structure, the 2015 is a total pleasure to taste today. All of the natural radiance of the…