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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bourgogne Blanc, unlike the previous vintage, comes entirely from the domaine in Meursault, the 2016 having been supplemented with fruit from the Mâconnais in order to maintain a two-year barrel rotation. It has a well-defined bouquet with scents of apple blossom and hints of coconut and orange blossom. The palate is expressive on…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Good red-ruby. Deep, complex nose combines cherry, raspberry, licorice, minerals and spices. Expansive, silky and sweet, but pure and fresh, with lovely incipient complexity and harmonious acidity. Finishes with firm, toothcoating tannins and terrific persistence. Also built for extended aging.

Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru offers lime, nettle and crushed stone notes on the nose, tightly coiled at first but opening nicely with aeration. The palate is a little reductive at the moment, just lacks a bit of bite and doesn’t quite match the aromatics, dipping prematurely at the finish line and leaving…

2000 Vintage Ports (Jan 2003)

Good full ruby. Expressive aromas of black fruits, violet and nuts. Sweet, fat and dense, with rich, slightly medicinal dark berry and shoe polish flavors. Builds nicely toward the back, finishing with smooth but firm tannins, a note of dark chocolate and a touch of youthful austerity.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Prieuré-Lichine was one of the pleasant surprises of this blind tasting, a Margaux that has improved in recent years. It has a superb, very Pauillac bouquet with graphite infused black fruit that is very well defined and neatly integrated with the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, very well…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good fresh red-ruby. Very ripe nose currently dominated by truffle and musky oak, with the fruit in the background. Fat and silky in the mouth, with good depth to its plum and sweet oak flavors. Finishes with building tannins and sneaky length.