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Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown has a more reductive nose than its peers—the aromatics are not coming out to play on this occasion. But in the glass, it does have real complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, though not quite as precise as its peers, with a little chewiness toward the finish. This does not engage as…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champ Gains 1er Cru has a reserved bouquet, well defined, crushed rock mixed with yellow flowers and a touch of jasmine. It feels a little fermé at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a potent saline element on the entry, quite vibrant in the mouth with a crisp finish…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge, aged in large foudres, has quite a plush bouquet with red cherries and crushed strawberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, pretty tart red fruit with a brisk, slightly tart finish. Delicious.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Opaque violet color. Intense dark berry, potpourri and olive paste aromas are energized by building mineral and cracked pepper flourishes. Stains the palate with appealingly sweet black and blue fruit, cola, candied violet and spicecake flavors that show a suave blend of depth and energy. Finishes on an emphatic blue fruit note, showing sharp definition,…

Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

Bright, light yellow. Brilliant aromas of lemon peel, white peach, crushed stone, fresh herbs and white pepper. Very rich and intensely flavored, showing powerful cut and a highly aromatic character to its crushed lemon and mineral flavors. Thicker than the Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Crays owing to its strong impression of dry extract but consistent from start…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a showy, almost ostentatious bouquet that is perhaps a bit unlike Chablis, though it is well-defined and seductive. It seems to gain complexity in the glass, with hints of yellow fruit and lemon sherbet emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine thread of…