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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Champs Libres is a powerful, phenolic white of real substance. White flowers, citrus, chamomile, sage and light tropical notes all open in the glass, but it is the tactile feel of Les Champs Libres that leaves the deepest impression. Here, too, there is a touch of reduction, but all the elements are…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Champs Libres, matured in Burgundy barrels on the fine lees, offers crisp apple blossom, Conference pear and light candle wax scents on a nose that gradually opens with aeration. The palate is lightly spiced on the entry, with Granny Smith apples, peach skin and quite a saline, almost Loire-like finish that feels…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

About half of this Riesling comes from Kirchspiel (representing most of the Keller’s vines in that site that aren’t close to seventy years old), with the rest mostly from Hubacker; but the other Westhofen crus are also marginally represented. Apple and white peach aromas are laced with basil and mint in an alluring aromatic display….

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated magenta. Smoke-accented aromas of cherry, blackberry, violet and black pepper, along with a smoky mineral touch that builds in the glass. Chewy and focused in the mouth, offering nicely concentrated, spice-laced and appealingly sweet black and blue fruit flavors with a touch of licorice. The peppery quality comes back strong on a long, sappy…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes has 20% whole bunches this year. This is nicely composed on the nose with pure, expressive, well-defined red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, and the 30% new oak is neatly enmeshed, just losing a little concentration in the final third as it tapers in slightly. But it will fill it…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Deep ruby. Spice-accented aromas of blackberry, violet and smoky minerals, with a hint of olive in the background. Concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering pliant dark berry, floral pastille and cracked pepper flavors and a salty touch of olive paste. Fleshes out steadily with air and shows fine clarity and appealing sweetness on the…