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The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Gombaude Guillot offers pleasant black fruit laced with undergrowth and pressed flower scents, although I would like more delineation to manifest with time. The nicely poised palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity and hints of black pepper and clove toward the finish. A delightful Pomerol from this biodynamic…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

Chapelle d'Ausone might very well be the best second wine in Bordeaux in 2018, and it is certainly a lot more compelling than many top cuvées. Inky, deep and voluptuous, the Chapelle shows all of the natural suppleness of Merlot to great effect. Soft curves and silky tannins round things out in style. It is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Chapelle d’Ausone was poured after the La Clotte, though in retrospect I would have reversed the order, because the aromatics here are more backward and sultry. They uncurl to reveal black cherries, briar, crushed rock/basalt and very light violet scents, all incredibly well focused. The palate is medium-bodied, sporting another silky, satin-like texture…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Translucent yellow. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe pear, yellow plum, orange zest, smoky minerals and jasmine, along with a deeper suggestion of honey. Honeysuckle, energetic, sharply delineated citrus, orchard fruit flavors stain the palate and become weightier with aeration. The mineral note expands as the wine opens up and drives an impressively long, chewy…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Precise aromas of dark berry preserves, pungent flowers, pipe tobacco and smoky minerals; allspice and succulent herb nuances build in the glass. Broad, alluringly sweet and youthfully chewy, offering intense blackberry, cherry preserve, fruitcake and bitter chocolate flavors and a sexy candied violet flourish. Shows a compelling interplay of power and energy and finishes youthfully…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Meursault is a rich, opulent white. Lemon confit, marzipan, spice and crushed rocks are all amplified. Clean mineral notes extend the finish while also providing a counterpoint to all the textural richness. The Meursault is a blend of parcels (including En Luraule, Petits Charrons, Casse-Têtes, Les Pelles), all estate, high up on the…