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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru shows a little more stem addition influence than the Les Beaux Monts, scents of truffle, damp autumnal leaves and dark berry fruit. There is fine delineation here although I find the Premier Crus show a little more grace. The palate is medium-bodied with more cohesion than the nose, modest weight,…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a brisk and generous bouquet with vibrant red plummy fruit, still with the suggestion of an oyster shell in the background. There is now just a very subtle licorice element. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, well balanced, perhaps less rustic than it showed from barrel with less herbaceousness….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru contains half Premier Crus (La Riotte and Clos Sorbé) and the other half from younger vines in Clos des Lambrays planted in 2000 that is likely to enter the Grant Vin next year. Including 50% whole bunches, it has an attractive dark berry fruit and subtle briny scents…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbé 1er Cru has a wonderful bouquet with dark berry fruit, hints of black tea and loam. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, quite sensual entry. The whole bunches are very well-integrated and not particularly noticeable. It’s pure on the finish and more expressive than its showing from…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a blend of 11 different cuvées and includes, for the first time, the plot of “30 Rangs”. This vintage includes 80% whole bunches, and like La Richemoine, it is deftly subsumed on the nose, which blossoms with vivacious red berry fruit, forest floor, white truffle, and light…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, which this year contains the measly amount of Les Evocelles harvested, has superb concentration on the nose with black cherries, bilberry and light oyster shell scents, all beautifully-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and is very pure and concentrated, maybe just needing a little more mineralité to come through…