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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Latour has an absolutely stunning bouquet that rivets you to the spot, with brilliant delineation and concentration and layers of black fruit, tar, graphite and light floral scents. Quintessential Latour firing on all cylinders. The palate is classic in style with a grainy texture, showstopping salinity and immense tension. You can almost picture…

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Full saturated ruby. Inky, brooding aromas of syrupy black fruits and violet. Dense, thick and tactile, with superb depth of flavor and compelling juicy sweetness. Finishes with powerful tannins and superb grip. Not as flamboyantly aromatic as this wine normally is in its youth, but structured for long, slow development in bottle.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is matured in 60% new oak. It has a finely tuned bouquet with scents of granite filtering through the green apple and pear aromas, and just a little linseed oil in the background. The well-balanced palate displays a fine bead of acidity, good tension from start to finish and a…

A Burgundy Intermezzo (Jul 2024)

The 2022 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a captivating sea cave and oyster shell-scented nose that is so different from the Puligny Premier Crus. The palate is slightly reductive but in a positive way, imparting a light bitterness and tension. There’s tremendous weight on the finish, but it retains linearity and focus. This is another of…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1985 Yquem has come my way a few times in recent years, but sadly, it never really impresses. The aromatics come across as one-dimensional compared to others: barley sugar and mandarin, later dried honey. It never really takes off. The palate is balanced yet more bitter than I recall, the finish rather disjointed and…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

In 2015, Mouton Rothschild is fabulous. A big, towering wine, the 2015 makes its presence felt with layers of super-ripe dense fruit and striking textural resonance that carries all the way through to the finish. The 2015 is much more reticent from bottle than it was from barrel, which is not at all surprising, but…